The mountains were silent, but the threat of a polar bear was omnipresent.
I had arrived in Svalbard, a Norwegian archipelago well above the Arctic Circle, and I was closer to the North Pole than almost everyone else on Earth.
Signs of familiarity were rare. Polar bears outnumbered humans, the only “city” had a population of 2,400, and mammoth glaciers could be found around any corner. This no man’s land is somewhere I truly never thought I’d be—a year ago, I doubt I could have pointed it out on a map.