The mountains were silent, but the threat of a polar bear was omnipresent.
I had arrived in Svalbard, a Norwegian archipelago well above the Arctic Circle, and I was closer to the North Pole than almost everyone else on Earth.
Signs of familiarity were rare. Polar bears outnumbered humans, the only “city” had a population of 2,400, and mammoth glaciers could be found around any corner. This no man’s land is somewhere I truly never thought I’d be—a year ago, I doubt I could have pointed it out on a map.
Yet six months prior, I stepped foot in Antarctica on an expedition cruise, and I discovered a newfound passion for Earth’s polar regions. As I sailed past skyscraper-sized glaciers, witnessed penguins in their natural habitat, and experienced tranquility like no other place on Earth, a fire was lit within me.
I knew I had to get back to the polar regions, but this time to the Arctic.
I booked an 11-night Arctic cruise on Poseidon Expeditions’ Sea Spirit ship
Having sailed to Antarctica with expedition cruise line Poseidon Expeditions, I was impressed by the quality of the ship’s expedition team, dining, and attentive service. I didn’t hesitate to book with the same line again.
Most Arctic itineraries are round-trip sailings from Longyearbyen, the capital of Svalbard, but my itinerary was the first Arctic cruise of the season. Therefore, the Sea Spirit had to reposition from Edinburgh, Scotland to Svalbard.
Included in Poseidon Expeditions’ cruise fares is a pre-cruise hotel stay. Upon arrival at Edinburgh’s train station, I walked just three minutes to the Radisson Blu.
The location could not have been more convenient, as it was located directly in the historic city center.
The following afternoon, an included shuttle transferred all guests from the hotel to the cruise port. Embarkation was a breeze, and I soon boarded the Sea Spirit, my home for the next 11 nights.
The Sea Spirit’s size is perfect for an expedition cruise itinerary
Most expedition ships, including the Sea Spirit, are significantly smaller than ships that can accommodate thousands of passengers. The ship has a maximum capacity of 114 guests, making it ideal for exploring such remote regions of Earth with few crowds.
Although you won’t find any amenities like a theater or water slides onboard, the Sea Spirit has everything needed for an immersive visit to the polar regions. The ship features two lounges—one for presentations and events and the other for leisure—along with a library, gym, and dining room.
Outdoors, guests will appreciate a wraparound promenade deck and an outdoor jacuzzi, which is, undoubtedly, the most picture-perfect place to take in the Arctic views.
Beyond the Sea Spirit’s amenities, however, is the ability to maximize time ashore for guests. Expedition cruise lines must adhere to environmental guidelines in the polar regions, with a maximum of 100 (Antarctica) and 200 (Arctic) passengers allowed onshore at any given time.
Due to the vessel’s low passenger capacity, guests sailing with Poseidon Expeditions face little, if any, wait times to board zodiacs to go ashore. Plus, guests do not have to alternate time ashore with a second rotation of guests.
Related: 7 things that surprised me about my first expedition cruise
The Sea Spirit’s Classic Suite became my home away from home
Upon boarding the Sea Spirit, I was welcomed with an embarkation day drink and snack selection. Soon after, I headed to my stateroom for the first time.
I booked a Classic Suite for my 11-night itinerary, which could accommodate two guests and measured in at 226 square feet.
The cabin featured a king-sized bed, couch, desk, and private bathroom. Storage was abundant in the cabin—essential when packing accessories and warm-weather clothing for the Arctic.
A large rectangular window provided natural light to the cabin, and I appreciated the views of the Arctic from the comfort of my warm, cozy stateroom.
After receiving our complimentary parkas and boots, we began island-hopping our way to Svalbard
Poseidon Expeditions provides parkas to every guest onboard to ensure passengers stay warm and comfortable while traveling to some of Earth’s most inhospitable regions. Soon after I boarded the Sea Spirit, we tried on our signature red parkas, as well as waterproof boots to wear while ashore.
Then we set sail toward Svalbard, a whopping 1,600 miles from Edinburgh. Sailing straight to the archipelago would take several days, so our itinerary included four stops along the way.
First, we spent a day in Scotland’s Orkney Islands, home to the Neolithic sites of Skara Brae and the Ring of Brodgar, both estimated to be over 5,000 years old. Next was a stop in Tórshavn, the capital of Denmark’s Faroe Islands. Here, we saw stunning sea cliffs, picturesque waterfalls, and an array of idyllic houses with grass roofs.
All tours were included in the cost of the fare, and I enjoyed having free time to walk around the destinations myself, too.
The ship’s expedition team kept our three sea days busy, with fascinating lectures and wildlife sightings
Due to gale-force winds approaching the North Atlantic, the Sea Spirit’s captain decided it was unsafe to visit Scotland’s Shetland Islands and Norway’s remote Jan Mayen Island.
With waves up to 6 feet, it would be impossible to safely transport guests from ship to shore on zodiac boats. Rather than put passengers and crew in potential danger, the decision was made to continue straight to Svalbard from the Faroe Islands.
So, as we sailed away from the Faroe Islands, three sea days were ahead of us. While the Sea Spirit’s small size is ideal when visiting the polar regions, I was worried I might feel restless on the vessel for three days in a row.
After the first sea day, though, I realized my worries were unwarranted. Despite the itinerary change at such short notice, the expedition team prepared a full day of activities, including a lecture on Earth’s climate zones as well as a spontaneous bananas foster party in the Club Lounge.
Related: Tips to deal with bad weather on a cruise
I even made time to visit the ship’s gym, although my visit was cut short after an announcement that a pod of orcas was spotted following the ship. I’ve never gotten off the elliptical so quickly!
Venturing further and further north, the sea days to Svalbard felt like an adventure.
Spirits were high as we crossed the Arctic Circle, and soon we caught our first glimpses of Svalbard
I watched the ship’s navigation map closely, anticipating the moment we finally crossed the Arctic Circle. As we inched closer and closer to 66.33 degrees north—and finally crossed over—spirits were high amongst passengers and crew.
Officially in the Arctic, the first task on the agenda was a line-crossing ceremony.
In Naval tradition, sailors receive an “Order of the Blue Nose” certificate upon crossing the Arctic Circle. A few tasks may be required to become a “Bluenose” as well, including kissing a fish or completing an obstacle course. Most notably, sailors’ noses are painted blue upon completing the challenges.
Unaware of this tradition before crossing the Arctic Circle, you can imagine my surprise when an expedition guide arrived in the Club Lounge dressed as King Neptune. Soon enough, I was cheering for passengers kissing a fish, and I sported a new blue nose myself.
Later that evening, I waited anxiously for my first glimpse of Svalbard. Soon enough, a snowy, white landscape appeared under the Arctic’s midnight sun, and it was time for the true adventure to begin.
The next four days in the Arctic involved zodiac cruises, guided hikes, and historical insights
One advantage of the Sea Spirit’s unforeseen schedule change was that we would have four days in Svalbard instead of the previously scheduled three. Given that expedition cruises offer both a morning and afternoon activity, this meant we could explore eight diverse areas of the archipelago.
Now in the land of the polar bear, the expedition team set a perimeter at landing sites and kept a vigilant watch for bears. As guests arrived on shore on zodiac boats, we were allowed free range within the perimeter.
Almost immediately, I noticed major differences between shore landings in the Arctic versus my Antarctica cruise last year. Because there was less ice and snow cover in Svalbard compared to the latter, there was more room to walk around freely. Guided hikes were available at several landings, and trekking through Svalbard’s remote, glacial-covered landscapes was magical.
Walruses, reindeer, and Arctic foxes could be spotted on land, and the ground was dotted with greenery and flowers. Despite the harsh conditions, life was surprisingly bountiful.
In addition to natural wonders was the region’s fascinating history. A visit to Ny Ålesund, the world’s northernmost settlement, provided a perspective on life in a largely uninhabitable region of the world, and the ruins of century-old settlements and mining equipment left me intrigued.
There was something so ethereal about discovering an environment so near to the top of the world—it almost felt like another planet.
We changed course upon notice of polar bears. It was like watching a wildlife documentary in real life
Frightening and mighty, Svalbard is home to an estimated 3,000 polar bears. Seeing a polar bear in the wild was, of course, on every passenger’s wish list for our Arctic cruise, but wildlife sightings can never be guaranteed.
Nonetheless, I remained hopeful we would spot a polar bear on the voyage (although hopefully from far away).
Each evening on the Sea Spirit, passengers were called to the Oceanus Lounge to discuss plans for the following day. On our first day in Svalbard, the ship received notice that two polar bears were feasting on a carcass in the far northwest of the archipelago, and we were we'd sail toward the bears.
The following morning, guests eagerly boarded zodiac boats hoping to catch a glimpse of a polar bear from afar. Yet after ten minutes of floating off the coast, no bears appeared, and I thought my dream of seeing a polar bear in the wild was all but lost.
Suddenly, however, a bear emerged from behind a hill… and then another. As the bears tore flesh off a carcass on the rocks, I felt as if I were watching a wildlife documentary, but the images in front of me were undeniably real.
Food options on the Sea Spirit were plentiful, and service was impeccable
In between time ashore, I was kept well-fed with the cuisine options on the Sea Spirit.
Meals were served three times per day in the ship’s dining room, along with a tea and snack selection in the afternoon followed by hors d'oeuvres during the evening recap meeting.
Options were varied at each meal, from a made-to-order egg station at breakfast to a variety of pasta, meats, salads, and soups at lunch. Dinner had table service, with a new menu each evening featuring anything from ahi tuna steaks to nasi goreng and vegetable curries.
Although dinner was served indoors most evenings, my favorite meal was, by far, the outdoor barbecue on the top deck. Indulging in roasted meats, grilled vegetables, and a (literal) tower of cream puffs as we sailed through the breathtaking Magdalena Fjord was a major highlight of my time in the Arctic.
With only 72 passengers onboard, I experienced nothing but 5-star service on the Sea Spirit. From the warm towels and tea served upon returning from a chilly day ashore to the chocolate party hosted during the crew talent show, every service was completed with remarkable attention to detail.
Earth’s polar regions are best visited by expedition ship, and I wouldn’t have done it any other way
As my Arctic cruise neared its end, I felt grateful for the new friendships and memories I made over the previous 11 days.
Each day of my Poseidon Expeditions cruise offered something new. I jumped into the Arctic Ocean during the polar plunge, spotted puffins nesting on a sea cliff, and trekked to waterfalls. I shared meals with passengers from a dozen countries, attended wildlife lectures from polar experts, and watched reindeer trot through a frozen landscape.
As a frequent traveler, I find that sometimes my trips and memories start blending together. After all, there are only so many museums, town squares, and beaches you can see before they all start to look the same.
Yet Earth’s polar regions are so unlike the rest of the world. Each sight, smell, and sound sticks with you. I’ll never forget the landscape’s silence before the polar bears approached, the feel of my boots stepping on squishy moss, and the smell of walrus jostling on the rocky shores.
Most of all, I’ll never forget the sheer sense of adventure as I stood in front of the Sea Spirit and felt the chilly Arctic air rush against my face, and that unmatched adrenaline is what will keep me booking expedition cruises time and time again.
Feeling inspired to visit the Arctic and Antarctica with Poseidon Expeditions yourself next season? Get an additional discount of $500 USD for cruises in the 2024/25 Arctic season and 2024/25 and 2025/26 Antarctic season by using the code #JENNA500 when booking.
For more details on expedition cruise offerings, contact Poseidon Expeditions directly.
Jenna DeLaurentis
Jenna DeLaurentis enjoys exploring new ports of call around the world on a cruise ship, learning about new cultures, discovering beautiful landscapes, and trying diverse cuisine. She loves to get active while at port, whether cycling through mountains in the Caribbean or scuba diving under the sea.
